Guest Blog: Bike-packing Across Scandinavia at 64 (Days 1 and 2)

Day 1: Jonkoping, Sweden (40 miles)

7 June 2024: Friday

I knew it was going to be tough. The first day always is. 

Christian and I said our good-byes to the family, I hugged each one, told them to practice up on Parcheesi so when I got back, there would be some semblance of competition. Then we headed out about 8:30 am, but he didn’t even leave the driveway before we heard a huge pop like a firecracker. His back tire had exploded. 

He switched to Isaac’s bike, pumped up the tires, adjusted some brakes, and then I said my good-byes once more, and we departed. 

My seat back kept falling down and rubbing the tire. I must have stopped to adjust it four or five times before our first rest break. Soon after we got to a clear vision of Lake Vattern, the countries second largest lake, we found a gasoline station. I bought a danish and a Diet Pepsi. We sat down at on a park bench and talked. 

A truck driver, likely from Turkey or Iraq, asked us if the water was drinkable. Christian said it was. In fact, it comes from the lake. I have been drinking faucet water since I arrived in Stockholm. 

Christian said that he now understood the attraction of biking. Your mind can wander, and you begin to think about things. I added that the physical challenge of pressing yourself to accomplish 30 or 40 miles each day is important. To push on when you are tired. To convince yourself that you overcome the elements and threats: Wind, rain, hills, heat, cold, sun, exhaustion, inconsiderate drivers, dehydration, diarrhea, fever, loose gravel, dirt paths, and on and on.

We rode on, but I had to rest many times. The wheat fields were beautiful. Cut and baled hay throughout the trip. Cattle and the occasional horse. By the time we arrived at Granna, Christian’s end point, it was noon. We had been traveling 3 hours and 15 minutes and only covered a distance of 16 miles, but I was exhausted. The inclines were not bad at all, but the headwind was 10 mph with gusts of 20. We stopped and had a pastry and a coffee on the street. Then I excused myself, and peddled on.

Christian told me that 15 minutes after I left, Hannah arrived, and he went straight home and took a nap. 

The wind was brutal the whole day. I couldn’t tell that this better bike (used) or the more streamlined bags or my lighter weight or increased exercise did squat. I was just a winded and just as worn out as I was in December in Arizona. I got a couple of brief cramps in my calves while riding. And I kept drinking water. 

By the time that I arrived at the First Hotel ($65/night) in Jonkoping, I was exhausted. It took me just 8 hours 15 minutes to go 40 miles with decent hills. The headwind was the killer.

I crashed about 7pm. Twice leg cramps woke me up, first in the right leg, then the left.

Day 2: Skillingaryd, Sweden

8 June 2024: Saturday

Racing against the clock!

At breakfast, I was alone. I don’t think many people are staying here. I had bacon and eggs. A slice of brown bread. Some granola and yogurt. 

Christian warned me that Swedes can be very cold. Reluctant to talk. So far that has been true. They are often reluctant to even greet you once greeted. While I am riding, I say, hi or “hej, hej” to most everyone. Some people smile and respond. Some see me coming on the bike, stop and turn around, smile, and wait for me to grow near so that they can get a load of me. Maybe half avoid eye contact. He explained that they are not trying to be rude, but trying to not overstep personal boundaries. Others can be very warm and helpful. 

It was due to rain at 1pm, so I decided to go a shorter distance: 20 miles. After a good breakfast in the hotel ($65/night room), I packed everything better this time, and made sure that the seat pack is way off the back tire, and took the elevator downstairs. 

I was out the door and into the parking lot on this brisk Saturday morning about 7:45 am. The temperature was 50 degrees and naturally the wind was coming in from the southwest just like yesterday. Fortunately, the big hill (500 feet incline) came in the first hour. I pushed and rode until I got to the top. 

I was winded, but the gray clouds looked like they wanted to disburden themselves and drench me, so I kept going. Never fast but relatively steady. Still lots of stops but at times only a few minutes break. 

The road was mostly abandoned, riding through small, modern villages. I mistakenly thought it was Sunday the whole trip. That explained the light traffic. I could easily go 20-30 minutes between cars. I ran out of water about 11 am and couldn’t find a spot to get more. 

Finally, I got on a stretch of road with a dense forest of spruce and pine on either side. They blocked the wind for maybe an hour. But just before arriving at Skillingaryd, it began to rain, some 90 minutes before predicted. 

I got pretty drenched, then the rain diminished to sprinkles. I arrived at the apartment ($73/night) at 11:55 am. The couple running the cottages are very kind. They explained that they had visited California and watched their daughter compete in an international body building competition in Columbus, Ohio many years ago. She came in 13th place, but was very disappointed. Today she is married and has kids, and lives here in Sweden. They told me about a cyclist who stayed last night. He was Finnish and riding from Germany to Finland. 

The husband excused himself, and Eva walked me up the back of their property (near the railroad) to a duplex cottage. I cleaned off Heidi’s tires and brought her inside. We sort of hung at the door while the conversation lagged. It was awkward for maybe three minutes, in which both of us wanted to leave, but neither wanted to seem discourteous. We hit upon topics, like where the supermarket was, whether I might stay another day if it rained, I checked my phone and there was rain predicted at 8 am and 12 noon. Could I get to Varnamo before it rains tomorrow (20 miles) or should I wait another day? If I decided to stay, do I book again with Booking.com or come directly to them? Surely it is going to rain all day, she said. Have a nice sleep. Check out time is noon. Leave the key in the door.

“You don’t have many bags, do you?” she asked, noticing only my tiny backpack and my seat bag.

”No, I don’t want too much weight.”

Finally she left, and I dropped my backpack, drank some water, and went back out the door a few minutes later and walked in the drizzle to the supermarket, bought some supplies, including laundry detergent, and walked home in the light rain. 

The cottage has a tiny washing machine, but no dryer. So I have to hang them on an indoor drying rack, so I washed them early, and put them on the rack about 3:45 pm. 

This distance is good for me: 28 miles. Or more accurately, the 4 hours and 10 minutes is ideal. Without the headwind, I could cover more distance. And the cold weather for me—locals are out walking barefoot—and the rain, I could do without. But the rest is good.